ANDALUCIA, GYPSIES AND FLAMENCO IN SPAIN

In southern Spain, the Provinces of Sevilla, Málaga, Almeria, Cadiz, Córdoba, Granada, Huelva and Jaen constitute the
Andalucia region with a population of about 7 million.
Andalucians are not ethnically, but culturally distinct.
Caused by rural poverty, Andalucia lost some of its population to big cities and other European countries.

A relatively high number of the population are Andalucian Gypsies; their ancestry having migrated from India, way back in the 15th century. A good number of them settled in Triana, by the Guadalquivir river at Sevilla, which has made it an important Flamenco center today. Others went to Jerez de la Frontera
in the Cadiz province (where Sherry wine originated and is produced today) and also, some settled in Granada, where the famous "Gypsy Caves" are located in the "Sacromonte" section of the city, some turned into Tablaos where gypsy artists perform
the different Flamenco styles (palos) in song, dance, and guitar. Andalucia is unquestionably the cradle of Flamenco, mainly nourished by the alleged originators - the Andalucian gypsies. These palos are subdivided into three categories or schools called cante chico, intermedio and hondo.- Siguirillas, fandangos soleares, saetas etc. are the here called categories.
This genre is performed by a singer accompanied by one or more guitars and palmas - a synchronized, some times complex hand clapping.

During the war of reconquest, Granada was the last Andalucian city under muslim rule, to fall to the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabel in 1492, and Flamenco was influenced by the mixing of Arabic, Jewish, Christian and Gypsy musical
characteristics.

From the second half of the 19th century until 1936, when the Spanish Civil War broke out, Flamenco flourished being per-
formed in "cafes cantantes" (singing cafes); establishments that
during that time spread all over Spain. The war brought that Fla-
menco golden era to an abrupt end.

After the war, Franco promoted Flamenco as a unifying Spanish
music, and Tablaos substituted the cafe cantantes.
Tablao is a stage combined with bar service, where you can have a
glass of wine or a cocktail while watching excellent gypsy artists perform. Sevilla has some of the best, and in Madrid is maybe the most famous Tablao in the world: "El Corral de la Moreria"

In the 1970's Flamenco experienced an intense creative renewal,
with the debut of exceptional artists such as Jose Monge - better
known as Camaron de la Isla. Jazz, rock and blues elements were integrated into what was called nuevo flamenco.

Today, Flamenco's popularity keeps increasing with new young stars such as Paco de Lucia, Estrellita Morente and Ojos de Brujo,
interpreting the new styles. But the true aficionado still relishes the original Flamenco you see and listen at the good Tablaos.

TORREMOLINOS, COSTA DEL SOL, SPAIN

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If you are a fan of James A. Michener and read his novel "The Drifters", you may recall Britta Bjørndahl, the young girl escaping the gloom and darkness of her original northern Norway; and in her quest for the bright sunny places she dreams about, finds herself on the "Costa del Sol' in southern Spain, specifically in Torremolinos in the early 1970’s.
Even then. Torremolinos was a Scandinavian - among other European Countries - tourist destination, where girls like Britta hoped to land a job, and stay there, enjoying the sunny, bright days and beaches on the coast of the blue Mediterranean.
Today, if anything, tourism has increased. It is a noisy, fast paced 24 hours a day resort area, with about 6 miles of sandy beaches and a variety of water sports. Packed with restaurants and bars, Torremolinos is a very lively place. specially in high season; with a very high voltage nightlife. A good placee to start the evening is one of the bars in :“Calle San Miguel", or in one of the restaurants on the promenade.
The menus, often in different languages offer good dishes such as fish and chips. steak and pasta. However some excellent Spanish seafood restaurants can be found in the fisherman's district of La Carihuela, which has been relatively undisturbed and has retained its Andalucian coastal charm.
There is a noticiable large gay community, centered on La Nogalera, where the clubs vary from the main stream to drag bars. Exotic shows are a feature here, and are popular\with both, the gay and straight visitor.
Playamar and Bajondillo are the two largest and most popular beaches, with all kinds of water sports. If tired, take a break at any of many bars and cafes along the promenade.- An excursion worth taking, includes a visit to "El Ranchito" where you'll see a wonderfully performed, skillful equestrian ballet, choreograph to music; with beautiful horses, and their riders.
At only 16 mile east of Torremolinos, Malaga with its 500,000 habitans is
the second largest city in Andalucia. It’s als capital of the province, and
famous for its raisins and excellent wines. It also happens to be the hometown of actor Antonio Banderas.
Malagas‘ Cathedral at the Plaza de La Catedral, is one of the outstanding buildings in the city. - The construction started in 1528, but stopped construction for lack of money. Even at this time, the southern tower of the church is not yet completed, and therefore, in Spanish is called “La Manquita.“ ( Manquita being an endearing nick-name for a female with a missing hand).
One, if not the most, famous sons of the city is Pablo Picasso. His House at the Plaza de La Merced 15., is home of the Picasso Fundation. A more famous and larger Picasso Museum is at the Palacio de Buenavista at Calle San Agustin. A visit to Malagas most famous painter’s Museun should be in your “Things to do in Malaga“ list.
Many very pleasant and interestig towns and places n the Costa del Sol, are accessible from this well located and interesting city.

PARIS, FRANCE, AND A TRAIN RIDE TO MADRID

As expected, the group of friends were already in the Hotel, each couple in their room, when Anna and I arrived from the Airport. Transferred some of the contents of the suitcases to the closet, refreshed ourselves a bit and walked down the hall looking for the right room number.- At my knock, the door opened and there stood Fito, a very dear friend that I hadn't seen in years.

I wasn't surprised to see his hands were occupied, holding a glass in one, and a bottle of Chivas Regal in the other. He put the glass and bottle on a table; Alicia, his wife ran over to join us...and the inevitable greetings ceremony began with warm embraces and cheek kissing; everybody talking at the same time.

Fito suggested we should sit down for a welcome drink, and then we would go greet the rest of the group - three more couples - all part of Fito's family. Anna and I had already met and liked all of them years back, so everybody felt comfortable with everybody else. Perfect! Sooo...finished the drinks, and just as I knew he would, Fito poured a second one. Last one before we go, he affirmed. Let's have this one, and we'll take you to greet the others.- I certainly wasn't going to argue. We had the time, and the Chivas was 18 years old.

Fito called the other couples, agreed to meet downstairs and go for a walk down to the Champs Elysee's and the Arch of Triumph; find a sidewalk Cafe and order a few beers while watching the Parisians go by, immune by now to the beauty of their city.- And we did just that. More hugs and cheek kissing - everybody talking - and genuine affection in the air. Started toward the Arch, two camcorders besides mine to record the event for posterity.
It was a very pleasant walk; but the Arch of Triumph - I don't know why - made me think of the Second World War, and in my imagination I could see German soldiers marching through. Finally we found a Cafe with tables out in the sidewalk and we sat and ordered beers all around. Francis, an attorney married to Fito's sister, Silvia, said that the Hotel could get us on a small bus to take us on a tour of the city, then to dinner in a Restaurant in the Eiffel Tower, and finally admire the beautiful bridges that span the River Seine, from the comfort of a touring boat.

Sounded good, so the next day's schedule was set. Anna and I were tired by then. We had taken a direct, non-stop flight from Memphis to Amsterdam where we had a two hour lay-over and hadn't had a chance to get much sleep. We were more than ready to go get some shut-eye, so as soon as we got back to the Hotel, we said good night and off to bed we went.

That was our first day in Paris, and we were looking forward to continue the next day. Mass at Notre Dame was schedule, and a visit to Napoleon's Tomb in "Les Invalides", the Eiffel Tower dinner and boat ride on the Seine.

We all met at the Hotel Dining Room, had a very nice breakfast sprinkled with a lively conversation and after getting the camcorders, we all climbed into the small touring Bus that waited by the sidewalk. Our guide spoke French, English and Spanish and had a pleasant personality. The size of the Bus was perfect for the ten of us and the guide. The driver's attention, all the time on the traffic around us. After Mass at Notre Dame, our guide took us all over the city, explaining and commenting on the different buildings and monuments we passed. At noon, at his suggestion we stopped at a small but very charming Restaurant, our guide translating the French Menu into Spanish, and making remarks about some of the items on the Menu. I remembered Anna and I had the same thing: Half dozen escargots, shrimp in a special sauce and a Fillet Mignon - rare - with champignons and a bottle of "House Wine." A cup of very good coffee and a Cognac ending the meal.
The touring continued by several places of interest, e.g. the "Moulin Rouge" and our guide also showed us the site where the Guillotine stood during the French Revolution; the place where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were decapitated.

Somebody mentioned the alleged phrase "Let them eat cake"

Our guide assured us that was just a myth, and told us that Marie Antoinette's last words had been: "I beg your pardon, Sir. I didn't do it on purpose." after inadvertently stepping on the executioner's foot.

We had a terrific time in Paris, but the time came for us to go our separate ways.
Fito and family were going to tour Italy; and Anna and I to Spain. Almost at the last minute, we decided to go by train instead of flying, so we could see some of the French countryside. A Hindu Gentleman that spoke English, very kindly offered to help us in buying the tickets and finding the car where our assigned seats were located. The train started out just as soon as we boarded, and we were in for a ten to twelve hour ride. We spent a good part of the time in the Club car, where you can enjoy a much better view, and Bar service. Before we knew it, we were crossing the Pyrenees Mountains, natural border between France and Spain.

When we finally made it to Madrid, a Taxi took us to our Hotel, just in time for a late dinner.- Our Spanish adventure was about to beguine; our next destination: Ibiza, one of the Balearic Spanish Islands in the Mediterranean.